
Bicycle-Pacific-Northwest
A 2,440 mile adventure from Fairbanks, AK to San Francisco, CA. June - July 2010.



Daily log by rider Sean Bolen
Day 1: Rode 43 miles by 10:30 yesterday, but then we ran out of money and they kicked us off the bus... We started our ride 30 miles East of Port Angeles and peddled 58.7 miles to Lake Crescent in Olympic National Park. Using a shirt as a pillow I slept on a pile of gravel, and after the ride it was some of the best sleep I've ever had.
Day 2: I woke up under the moss covered alder of the Olympic National Park. The first two miles were at a steep incline, but then just occasional hills and valleys. The wildflowers grow on the side of the rode and as I ride through daisies, blue bells, sorrel and poppies I feel as though I am riding through an impressionist painting.
Day 3: Started the morning riding through the fog under a hemlock canopy. We rode 22 miles through Forks and up the mountain to the turnoff from 101. From there it was a treacherous downhill slope for miles through the Hoh Rainforest. 44 miles today and 46 tomorrow, but we have to retrace our steps back to 101 to climb the mountain that we came down. For the first time I am doubting whether I can make the miles tomorrow.
Day 4: I woke up to the sound of the Hoh River flowing behind the tent. Nearby there were moss covered spruce, the moss hanging down in beards three or four feet long. I had dreaded this morning, worrying about climbing the ridge at mile 18. Over breakfast we discussed the hill, how we might have to push the bikes up. The ride was quiet as the miles ticked by, stopping a few times to take pictures of the Hoh river valley. At mile 16 I was reminded of why I wanted to go on this ride, to prove to myself that after three surgeries this year that I was better, that I wasn’t broken. With that in mind I locked my shoes in, peddled faster and committed myself to climbing the hill that I knew I physically couldn’t climb. There is a great reward in knowing that you won’t give up… And there is an even greater reward in completing the impossible. 44 miles today.
Day 5: The ride started with us being flagged down by Glenn he was touring the same route as us and we had discussed with him the night before our agenda for the day. The ferry had quit running, and if Geoff had not informed us of that we would have ridden an additional 20 miles to get around the bay. We changed our route and started our journey. Along the way we met Allan who informed us where we should camp, and briefly bumped into three young women from London who were on the same ride. That night, after 44 miles, we sat around a campfire talking with Alan, Woody, Lizzy, and Buffy while sipping B&B and drinking red wine. It would be Woody’s birthday tomorrow, and she was saying that the campfire was perfect for marshmallows. 54 miles today.
Day 6: We stopped a few miles down the rode and I picked up three things that I needed and one that I didn’t. The ride was relatively easy, and we had increased our pace to meet up with George in Hoquiam. Rolling into town we spotted the bike shop where he was getting repairs, and pulling in front of the store, Woody, who we had met the night before, stepped out in front of me. “I have something for you,” I said. And with her looking confused I reached into my bag for the marshmallows I purchased that morning. “Happy Birthday Woody,” and I handed her the marshmallows. 55 miles today. And the four of us toasted marshmallows that night with Allan and the girls.
Day 7: There are long stretches of road today. Crossing a bridge I look down at a sea otter playing in the brackish water. Swallows circle overhead catching mosquitoes and gnats in the air. On a quiet slow turn I spot a herd of fifty elk to our left, the bulls beginning to get their horns. For miles we circle the tidelands exposed by the receding water. I see a father and son walking through the silt. The son carrying a rake over his shoulder and his father a bucket of freshly caught clams. Hills turn to humps. Minutes turn to miles. And this ride will always be with me.
Reunited with my notebook.

What do you eat on a typical riding day?
18:00 Dinner, 60 miles: 1 salad, 1 lasagna, desert and beer
About the bike gear I come to rely on.
This is the bike I have come to rely on. I trust and invest in my bicycle for a safe and comfortable trip. At the center of the ride is a steel frame Soma (in Greek, Soma means body). The model is called 'Groove'. The Cross-Max Titanium wheel set and Specialized Kevlar tires engage the road with not a single flat tire, ever. Braking, shifting and drivetrain components are Shimano XTR. Held to the frame by 2 Old Man Mountain aluminum rack systems are 4 Ortlieb dry bags to carry the gear. Each bag serves a purpose; front left, food/ supplies, front right; sleeping bag, rear right; clothing, rear left, laptop and electronics. My MacBook Pro travel companion is the instrument with which I compose the digital narrative of writings, video and photographic means. To best relay the places I am experiencing, I document the ride with my computer and find that the limit is my imagination. Time to travel by bicycle and document by computer is the balance I am looking for out here.
Threading the Inside Passage/ Southeast Alaska by Ferry.
The evolution of a bicycle traveler.
This is my fourth bicycle tour measuring more then 2,000 miles. Each ride has taught me lessons about the balance between carrying too much gear and having just enough stuff to travel comfortably. As far as clothes are concerned, a good rule of thumb is to try to wash once per week. Three sets of riding clothes can last 2-3 days each. While off the bike, two sets of clothes are sufficient. In addition I carry waterproof rain gear, gloves and hat for colder conditions. When it comes time to camp, I am carrying a lightweight 2-man tent to keep me and my gear dry in the event of rain. An inflatable sleeping pad provides a soft surface and thermal buffer from the cold ground. A down fabric sleeping bag keeps me warm up to -20'C. All this gear and more is carried in 4 waterproof pannier bags. Bicycle touring is an art form perfected with each attempt.
Cycling Jasper/ Banff National Parks
I can imagine myself staying here for a very long time. A small town on the crossroads of two Canadian National Parks, Jasper is the North entry of what is regarded by many cyclists as the most beautiful road in the world. I have met Dutch, Japanese and Spanish tourists who have come from across the world to see this road. From Jasper, I follow two lanes of asphalt meandering somewhere between heaven and Earth en route to Lake Louise. I am excited to to find a place where nature still exists as the explorers first discovered. Here, sublime mountains rise to +10,000ft. Upon them hang crystal blue glaciers balanced between sharp rock mountain passes. As they melt, cold waters of the most recent rain join to flow into creeks and rivers of uncharted canyons. I would not have made a point to visit had my sister's father-in-law not spoken so highly of this place. Something told me I had to experience it while I was in the neighborhood. Having been here, I can now echo Simbetheros' words; Jasper, Alberta Canada is like living a dream.
A blog post from Icefield Centre at Sunwapta Pass, Elevation +6,000ft
Q: You must be rich? A: Yes, this experience is priceless.
Alaskan hospitality.
About fellow cyclists.
When nature calls.
Brown Bear at Broad Pass.

Denali National Park and Mt. McKinley
First Entry: Alaska's Route 3 South

100 miles out of Fairbanks, the highway begins to climb into the Alaska Range. With each pedal I draw closer to the summits of the highest mountain range in North America. In abundance is precisely what I am seeking; the grip of the wilderness, the allure of adventurous activity, the privilege to wander. But I entertain no illusions; the Alaska wild is not for dreamers . The 420 miles from Fairbanks to Whittier harbors more then it's share of bear, caribou, moose and I spotted my first grey wolf today. Wolves are social animals, traveling in packs of up to 30. Today we were alone. Strapped to my handlebar just beside my brake lever is a canister of bear mace. Aside from the bicycle's hum of kevlar tires on this smooth paved shoulder, a vast silence reigns over the land. The low Kantishna plain surrenders to me Alaska's Route 3- The George Parks Highway. Mile 63, Day 1, June 7, 2010. Nenana, AK.
Thoughts about blog and cycle touring

For the third consecutive year, I've devoted my summers to life on the road by bicycle. The freedom and simple beauty of such travel is too good to pass up. I have crossed the United States and Europe discovering an intense young man with a streak of stubbornness and allure to live dreams and tell stories about them. Now at a healthy 31 years of age, a superabundance of energy sends me pedaling into Alaska's rugged edge of society to seek conversation with the wild. Through the blog, writings, photos and maps I hope to document my travels respectively in an effort to teach by example, the necessity of living out one's beliefs. Longing to account with clarity the inevitable reflection of the larger subject of Alaska, I've temporarily traded my comfortable life on the East Coast to explore footloose and free the inner country of our souls. God Bless America. Mile 134, Day 2, June 9, 2010, Denali, AK.